Makeup Basics: Techniques

Until I took modeling classes, I did not know even the most basic makeup techniques. All too often I see what could be a great picture ruined by horrible makeup. This tutorial will show you the technique I learned, one that I've seen in several makeup books. I'll also include a list of books I recommend reading for further instruction.

Using quality makeup is important to me but I love to save money. Listed below are the best "drug store" brands I've found. I never spend more than ten dollars on one item and typically spend quiet a bit less. But I've used these brands for years and have had quality results from them time and again.

This is my face, no editing (blemishes and all). Immediately after I wash my face, I moisturize. This is not only a good habit for healthy skin, it helps tremendously when applying makeup. Although good makeup can cover up a few blemishes (as you will see), it is important to keep your skin as clear as possible. I recommend developing a routine and sticking to it to see results.


Here I'd like to note that this is how I apply makeup for photo shoots. I don't wear makeup on a regular basis outside of modeling and the rare occasion I do, I only wear a bit of concealer, powder, light eyeshadow and lip balm. If it's a special occasion, I recently started wearing L'oreal True Match Super Blendable Compact Makeup, which is not as heavy as liquid foundation and already has a powdery finish.

For photo shoots, the method is much more involved. I use Physicians Formula Gentle Cover concealer in green to cover red blemishes and in yellow to cover dark areas, such as under eyes and I get bluish spots on the sides of my nose. This type of makeup is extremely useful but I've found it's best to let it set for a minute or so, then blend it a little with a piece of toilet paper or cotton swab. After this, you have to cover it with your regular concealer. This might seem like an unnecessary step but without it, the yellow and especially green concealer will show through. I use the colored concealer for bigger blemishes and my regular concealer for smaller ones. The brand of face makeup I use is L'oreal True Match Super Blendable available at WalMart. It is the best brand I've ever used, it lasts a long time and really matches my skin tone. They have an easy to use chart to match you skin's tone to the correct color, which they have divided into warm, nuetral and cool. I have a warm skin tone and all of my products are clearly marked with a W so they're easy to find. My favorite thing about this brand is that it works well but my freckles still show through, which is important to me. After all my concealer, I apply a light layer of foundation all over, which I then cover with powder. At this point, I always apply blush as well which you can also buy from L'oreal True Match to match your skin tone. Smooth lips are important so I use Burt's Bees Beeswax Lip Balm every day, particularly before I apply lipstick. Below is my face after all of these steps. Notice the difference in my skin texture from picture one and two and that you can still see my freckles but not my blemishes. The smoother look in picture two looks better in pictures.


After my basic cover-up, I apply eye makeup. When it comes to eyeshadow, pigmentation is the name of the game. You know how a color looks really pretty in the container but is never that nice on your skin? Simply put, pigmentation is how much color you will get out of your makeup. Brands with higher pigmentation will cost you more so most drug store brands won't be fantastic. My number one recommendation for eyeshadow with great pigmentation is MAC but I don't own a single thing from the line because it's too expensive for my taste. However, L'oreal High Itensity Pigment (HiP) can be found at WalMart for a reasonable price and is absolutely fabulous. I also use CoverGirl eyeshadow a lot because I've found it works best with my skin.

There are several different eye "looks" but the most basic, the one I use most, is pictured below. To create this look, I use a neutral color all over the lid, a darker color in the crease and a highlighting color on the brow bone and inner eye. The reason this look is so often used is it highlights areas that light naturally hits (brow and lower lid) and darkens the area with a natural shadow (crease). By applying the highlighting color to your inner eye, you make the eye look wider and brighter. For a soft, natural look, I do not use an eyeliner pencil; instead I take the crease color and using an angled brush, apply it to the outer corners of the eye. Again using the angled brush, I extend the neutral color from the inner eye where the highlighting color stops to the darker color, then blend. After that, apply mascara and separate with a lash separator which removes the clumpiness--so important! I own two types of mascara for different looks. Rimmel Underground Double Play has a day side and night side; I use the day side for a softer look, such as below, and night for darker. If I want to have even darker, thicker lashes, I use Maybelline Intense XXL Microfiber mascara. This has the white makeup that makes the lashes plumper, then the black end for color. Lipstick isn't as important to me. I only wear it for photo shoots and tend to focus on my eyes anyway. N.Y.C. has lipstick for $0.98 at WalMart and Maybelline's is only a few dollars. Here's the finished look.


There are tons of makeup books available but I've learned the most from these particular titles.
Making Faces by Kevyn Aucoin
Face Forward by Kevyn Aucoin
Bobbi Brown Beauty by Bobbi Brown
Bobbi Brown Beauty Evolution: A Guide to a Lifetime of Beauty by Bobbi Brown